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| Archives - Road Trips |
American Adventure: Northwestern Massachusetts And Vermont - From RoadBike July 2009
Going Green By Tricia Szulewski Sometimes, things just come together. Last September, I had a wonderful, new Kawasaki Concours tester at my disposal, my workload was light, and a motorcycle rally was coming up in Killington, Vermont, a short hop from my friend’s condo in Rutland. Seizing the opportunity, I decided to take three days out of the office to head north from my home in Bethel, Connecticut, on a solo road adventure. Leaving Connecticut With last-minute packing and checking, I didn’t set out until almost 9:30 on a sunny, warm Wednesday morning. Even so, I was determined to set my own pace; I wasn’t on a time clock, though I did want to arrive at the condo before dark. It’s not often that I get a chance to get out and ride on a day with such little traffic, so I decided to take back roads all the way. Taking a familiar route north through Litchfield County, I traveled through my usual stomping grounds of Brookfield, Bridgewater, Roxbury, and Washington, Connecticut. My first stop was to explore the bridge over Lake Lillinoah, at the boat dock in Bridgewater. Another art director had told me about the scenic spot, so, always scouting for new photo locations, I decided to snap a few of the Kaw. A few months later, I’d drag RoadBike photographer Bob Feather here to shoot the Triumph Tiger (check out this issue’s Table of Contents.) After taking in the beautiful morning light, and thinking about how the gray steel bridge’s reflection in the serene lake would look in these pages, I got moving again. Happy to not be at work, I wound the powerful Concours up the densely covered, twisty roads without stopping again, until I came to a covered bridge somewhere close to the Massachusetts border on Route 8. North Adams
Riding through Massachusetts was fairly uneventful. Route 8 was pleasant enough, but after a couple of hours, I started getting bored with the scenery, and my stomach was growling. There actually wasn’t much to see until I got to North Adams in the northwest corner of the state. Coming into the most populated town I’d seen all day, the tall peak of Mount Greylock appeared on the left, while a wall of tall pines loomed straight ahead. The local architecture is 1800s era, and large, Victorian-style homes are well-kept and inviting. Small shops and retail businesses line the street and appeared to be open, but on that Wednesday afternoon, they weren’t quite bustling with activity.
Riding slowly past a tall statue of William McKinley, I decided it was time to stop and explore a bit. Carved by Augustus Lukeman (who also carved Stone Mountain in Georgia), the statue was unveiled in 1903, after the assassination of the former president, who’d visited the area three times: once as governor of Ohio and twice as president of the United States. McKinley’s economic policy of protecting American industries from foreign competition led places like Adams to experience economic growth and prosperity. It’s a dramatic statue, set at the northern end of Park Street at a Y-intersection, right in front of a church whose soaring bell tower dominates the streetscape. The expression on McKinley’s face is serious, and he’s posed with his left hand out, toward the center of town. I lucked into finding the Adams Visitor Center, right around the corner from the statue. Grabbing some brochures, this is where I learned that the two-year Historic Parkway Rehabilitation Project on all roads leading to Mount Greylock’s 3,491' peak was in full swing. While I’d planned to take the 8.5-mile trek to the Veterans War Memorial Tower that marks the summit, I had to postpone that excursion. (The project was originally scheduled to be completed by this printing.) The rep I spoke to at the visitor center assured me that it is worth coming back to do. He said that the road up is rich with hairpin turns and views around every corner, and that he suspects once motorcyclists get wind of the new pavement, it will lure overconfident sport riders, as well as law enforcement. No more need be said. I’ll be back! The illuminated granite tower at Mount Greylock’s summit was originally intended to serve as a lighthouse on the Charles River in Boston, and was dedicated to the state in 1933. The 92' tall structure marks the highest point in the state, and honors Massachusetts’ men and women who gave their lives in time of war. If you climb to the top on a clear day, you will be rewarded with a 360-degree view that spans almost 80 miles. I decided to sit outside and eat my bag lunch while thumbing through the brochures I’d picked up. From here, many riders will want to turn eastward on Route 2 to continue exploration of the Mohawk Trail. This 63-mile route was designated New England’s first official scenic road, and offers not only great twisties and forested landscape, but tons of history as well. Loaded with New England charm, there are perfectly restored, pre-Revolutionary homes, country inns, art attractions, museums, gift and antique shops, hiking trails, camping areas, and parks. Running later than I would’ve liked, I opted to leave the Mohawk Trail for another trip, but checked out Natural Bridge State Park before entering Vermont. Just outside of North Adams, I made a quick turn at the “if you blink, you’ll miss it” sign for the park. A small, unassuming, dirt road led me to a larger paved one hidden by the trees. A dramatic marble quarry wall greeted me around one corner just before reaching the parking lot. I followed an easy footpath that led me to the white marble that formed a natural bridge. The air was cool in the shady, cavernous rock formations, and the fast-flowing Hudson brook about 30' below created a soothing ambiance.
Green Mountain State
Fighting the pressure of time getting away from me, I headed back to the Concours. Still riding north, I soon passed the border into Vermont, and saw signs marking the Green Mountain National Forest. Route 100 to Ludlow is nicely paved, scenic, and not heavily traveled. I kept my eyes peeled for a moose or bear fishing in the stony rivers, but I knew that the chances were little that I’d actually see something. After all, I’d been up here dozens of times by car, at all times of the day and night, and have never seen either. But I did see Vermont’s famous cheese-producing Holsteins (the black-and-white dairy cows) and a few horses. The weather was perfect, the bike was proving to be a phenomenal choice, and I was not at work. Life couldn’t be any better. Soon I turned from Route 103 West to Route 7 North, and into Rutland. I was, finally, almost there. Unfortunately, it was rush hour, and unbeknownst to me, the Vermont State Fair was in town, causing a major traffic backup. I finally made it to the condo, and called it a night. Killington And Beyond
Thursday morning, I got up refreshed, and headed up Killington Access Road to the Killington Classic Motorcycle Rally headquarters. I’d been here in winter before, when the ice and snow makes for treacherous traveling up the long climb. Casual places to eat, ski shops, and resorts line this stretch of pavement. During the height of ski season, they are jam packed with excited young daredevils, who party as hard as they carve corners in fresh powder. Many remain open in summer, but the lower volume of people appealed to me. I was curious to see how the motorcycle crowd would transform this place. Checking in with the folks in charge, it seemed that the real festivities were at night, and on the weekend. Being that I had to get home in time to meet my daughter’s school bus on Friday afternoon, they allowed me to take printed directions for a couple of Friday’s guided tours. There was a covered bridge tour, an “endurance tour” to the Cabot cheese factory, and a “Sweets with Lou” tour, which runs up Route 100 and stops at a few of the organizer’s favorite sweet spots. In the end I selected a half-day, 135-mile waterfall tour. (For a printable set of directions, go to www.RoadBikeMag.com.) I chose the latter route, as it would allow me to take my time, take pictures, and still get back to make that evening’s Country Western Night, complete with a barbeque buffet, live band, and line dancing. Too bad I’d forgotten my cowboy hat. I began the tour heading north on Route 100. The scenic road meanders along the eastern edge of the Green Mountain National Forest. The directions instructed me to turn left (west) when I reached Route 125. However, I found out that one of the most photogenic falls in Vermont is a bit north, so I recommend staying on 125. About three miles past Granville, clearly visible to the west, you will see Moss Glenn Falls. Here, Deer Hollow Brook filters through a narrow rocky gap and then shoots down a 30' layered rocky slope. Moving at a moderate pace, some of the water runs down the rocks, while most of it sprays out over the rock, creating a layered, visually stunning look. The brook continues over and around various rocks, creating mini falls, and the shadows and highlights created by the texture add to the dramatic aesthetic appeal.
Turning onto 125W, I traveled a short distance and saw the Green Mountain National Forest sign indicating I was at Texas Falls. The heavily wooded area is moist from the Texas Brook, and I welcomed the cool air here. The water runs through an attractive gorge, and viewing it from all angles is easy by staying on the footpaths and wooden bridges. As I peered straight down from one of the footbridges, the deep green pool in the smooth rock chasm looked especially inviting (but, of course, no swimming is allowed). Getting great pictures wasn’t hard either, because of the opportunity for different angles, many textures, and light contrast. I got to a fairly level spot, at the top of the gorge, set the camera on the timer, and quickly walked over some jutting rocks in the middle of the brook for a self-portrait. Continuing west through the national forest, beyond the town of Middlebury, the next stop was Belden Dam. However, the dirt road was misleading, and I wasn’t quite sure I was in the right place. The first thing I saw was a large hydropower building blocking the view of the dam. Otter Creek is wide here, and on the day I was there it was shallow and mucky, with algae forming around all the smaller stones and rocks. Seeing what looked like a waterfall peeking out from behind the building, I decided to explore. Once I got around the building, I discovered a suspension plank bridge over the upper part of the dam. From above, I got a better look at the manmade floats and boards directing the water to the plant. The water then runs through a narrow channel, created by the rock. Going to the end of the bridge, I climbed around and under it in order to get a good shot. I thought about how if I fell and broke a leg, no one would ever find me there, and suddenly felt extremely alone and vulnerable. Hurrying back to the bike, I stopped to look at a posted map that showed hiking and mountain-biking trails leading to the Otter Creek Gorge Preserve — more fun for another day.
Middlebury is a bustle of activity – cafés, bakeries, restaurants, and craft and specialty stores. Another large Otter Creek waterfall runs under the bridge in the middle of town, and actually appears to have run right through some of the buildings that were built directly next to it. There’s another footbridge to cross, but you can pick your way over the marble boulders and rocks to get up close to the falls.
Riding a short distance to Weybridge, you pass Lower Falls Dam on the right, and can turn off to see Huntington Falls. Neither is visually interesting compared to the previous waterfalls I’d visited, so my stay was short. Riding south out of town on Route 30, I relaxed and enjoyed the straight country road. The views were spectacular, with the Green Mountains to my right, the distant Adirondacks to my left, and rolling farmland in between. I realized at this point that sometimes being on the edge of a mountain range beats riding in them. Turning left in Whiting, I rode Route 73 through the lower section of the Green Mountain National Forest. The curvy, wooded roads were bumpy in some sections, but a welcome change from the straight, hot country roads. Heading south again on Route 100 to Killington with barbecue on my mind, I stopped only to check out a country store and to chat with some bikers who’d been to the rally three times before. What brings them back? I asked. Their unanimous answer? The fantastic scenery, variety of places to visit, and camaraderie that only a motorcyclist can understand. RB Extra Bonus!! Download PDFs of the Tour Map and direction to all of these sites: Mark Your Calendars While the Killington Classic has changed hands since I attended the rally, there will still be tons to do and see for 2009. Registration buys you entrance to the vendor area, nightly ceremonies and events, prize drawings, free admission to the Vermont State Fair, and more. This year, New England Motorcycle Tours will be providing guided tours, and there will be self-guided tours to choose from as well, including an all-new covered bridge tour, the Vermont village sampler, and the Bennington ramble. The rally’s biggest attraction, Saturday’s 12-mile parade from Killington to Rutland, draws hundreds of supporters. Events: Vermont State Fair Resources Mount Greylock Visitors Center Killington Chamber of Commerce Vermont Chamber of Commerce For More Pictures And Info: |
Natural Bridge views 
