I’ve taken it back to my Suzuki dealer several times to have it checked out. At first, they said the sound would go away once the bike was broken in, because the bike has hydraulic valves and would correct itself. Then they told me that it’s just the way the engine sounds. But I find this hard to believe, since my 800 never made this sound, nor did any of the other bikes I’ve tested.

Is this really a characteristic of the bike? If not, what needs to be done to fix it? — T.J., Via e-mail

A: As usual, your question raises others. As you can imagine, questions that revolve around noises (“my bike goes ticka-ticka-tock”) or feelings (“my bike has a kinda buzz-feeling thing”) are difficult. But there are some well-recognized noises and feelings that mechanics have come to agree on.

At first, I thought you were experiencing spark knock, or “pinging,” because you say it only surfaces during acceleration. Spark knock occurs under the heaviest loads, usually during acceleration and at peak torque (which would happen in your bike around the rpm you note). But, I have to ask myself, what are the chances of this occurring in a new, electronically injected and ignited motorcycle? In reality, the chances are pretty slim.

If you’re using normally available regular gas, and the temperature of the engine is within its optimal limits, I doubt that you’re getting any spark knock. The fuel/air mixture and the spark curves are fixed in that little digital black box, the engine control module. As long as those values are correct (and it’s unlikely that they’ve changed), you’ll avoid knock. So that’s not it.

Hydraulic valve components? Maybe. What you have in there is a hydraulic unit that takes engine oil pressure and moves a plunger to eliminate any valve lash or clearance. These components have been known to react a bit slowly, clicking away for a while. Usually, though, that noise is short lived and goes away after a bit of warming and riding. So it’s not that, either.

That leaves me with the dreaded “Oh, that? They all do that!” response. And I’m going to go with this one. Large-bore, long-stroke engines like yours are particularly prone to a condition known as piston slap. This is a kind of hollow ting-y noise that comes from the cylinder when the piston, under heavy load (peak torque), rocks in the bore and transmits a shock to the cylinder wall. The geometry of big V-twins is particularly conducive to this. It’s harmless, however, and I’d call it a characteristic, not a problem. A good indication that this is what’s actually happening is if it’s more noticeable when the motor is cold. This is an important distinction, because it’s exactly the opposite of what would happen if you had a knock problem. In that case, it would be a problem, not a characteristic. — Doug Meyer, (formerly of Muzzys)

Q: I have a 2000 Yamaha Road Star with spoked rims. I’d like to put a set of Metzeler ME 880 radials on it, but a friend told me that I can’t put radials with tubes on spoked rims. Is he right, or is there a way I can do this without buying new rims? — Randy, Via e-mail

A: Metzeler’s radial tubeless tires may be fitted with Metzeler tubes on standard TT (tube-type) spoked rims. Tubeless tires that are suitable for assembly with a tube on a TT rim can be used on tube or tubeless rims, but not for applications where you’ll be exceeding 120 mph.

Here are some tips for installation. When you install a tube in a tubeless tire, don’t tighten the valve system locknut until the tire is seated and inflated to proper riding pressure. And whenever you install a tube, be careful not to pinch the tube. It helps to dust it with talcum powder. Also, inspect the rim band, as the rim strip is very important on a TT rim. Consult the motorcycle manufacturer for correct rim band replacement, if necessary. — Jeff Johnston, Metzeler/Pirelli RB